Cancer and treatments are like vampires, draining you of your energy, emotionally and physically. Your treatments may cause you to look less like "you," You may feel drained of your sense-of-self and confidence. Many women have a secret weapon to combat these Draculas with confidence, the sunlight peeking through the window: makeup. Wearing makeup during chemo gives you control, helping to restore your confidence. However, applying makeup during chemo comes with its own set of challenges. We are here to help you navigate the world of makeup during chemo.

Common Skin Problems During Chemo

Various side effects of chemo can make putting on makeup more difficult. Some common side effects include: 

• Dry skin and lips
• Extra sensitive skin
• Facial inflammation
• Acne and rashes
• "Color changing" skin that may take on different undertones day to day. Oftentimes, this makes the face look sallow and pale.
• Light sensitivity
• Loss of eyelashes and eyebrows

You will likely have to switch up your routine and makeup products in order to achieve a look that helps you feel like yourself. Using proper makeup techniques, you will be able to tackle these problems. Follow our step by step guide to help you.

Step 1: Prepping your Skin

If you notice that your skin feels dry, cracked, or rough during treatment, it's likely because chemotherapy drugs have sucked the moisture out of your body. We're all equipped with natural essential oils that act as lubrication, but during chemo you may need to help your body replace what it has lost.

First, drink a large glass of water. Staying hydrated on the inside is imperative to looking fresh on the outside. Then, it's time to pamper yourself. Develop a skin care routine that is full of moisture restoring, gentle products, including exfoliators, face wash, moisturizer, sun screen, and a lip treatment.

1. Exfoliator

As skin becomes dry and flaky due to chemo, an exfoliator can keep the skin looking fresh by removing dead skin. Limit exfoliation to 1-2 times per week.

2. Gentle face wash

During chemo your skin can't rejuvenate cells as quickly, so stick with a face wash that is free of chemicals, such as sulfates and parabens, and strong fragrances. If you can, choose an oil-based cleanser that soothes skin as it cleans. It is best to wash your face in cool to warm water, rather than hot water. Using cool water will help reduce inflammation in the face. 

When removing makeup in the evening, a reusable, chemical-free makeup wipe such a GLOV is also an excellent option.

3. Facial Moisturizer

Not only is dry facial skin uncomfortable, it robs your complexion of its natural radiance. Restore a dewy hue by using a face lotion infused with oils and vitamin E. Once again, avoid lotions that are heavy in chemicals and fragrances, which can irritate the skin.

4. Facial Sunscreen

Protecting skin from UV radiation should be paramount to all people under the sun. But cancer patients are extra susceptible, as some chemo drugs are actually phototoxic - which means they actively absorb UV light. To protect yourself, use sunscreen on your skin every day—even if you are not planning on spending time outside. Select a gentle, moisturizing broad spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30.

If you're going to be spending lots of time outside, top your look off with a stylish brimmed hat for extra oomph. Our favorites have UPF+ protection built right into the fabric.

4. Lip Treatment

Give your smoochers some love by exfoliating first with a refreshing sugar scrub several times a week, and moisturizing every day. Our Aloe Lip Care Treatment soothes chapped lips, while the Vitamin C and Vitamin E treatment pumps them full of hydration.

Best Lip Treatments for Cancer Patients:

Recommended Chemo Skincare Routine

A.M.

1. In the morning, rinse your face with cool water to reduce puffiness.
2. Apply a layer of moisturizer.
3. Put 1-2 layers of moisturizing sunscreen on your face and neck.
4. Apply a layer of lip treatment if needed.

P.M.

1. Wash your face with a gentle cleanser at night to take off your makeup and cleanse your skin.
2. Apply a facial moisturizer before bed
3. Apply your lip treatment.

Step 2: Primer

Primer creates a smooth base for your makeup and can help neutralize uneven skin tones. When your skin is textured and your skintone is inconsistent due to chemotherapy, a primer is a must. Not only will it help you use less foundation and concealer, it will make applying them much easier. Just make sure to choose a gentle, silicone-free primer. If the unwanted undertones in your skin are particularly strong, you can even keep a stash of color correcting primer on hand.

• Colorless primer evens skintone.
• Lavender color correcting primers cancel out sallow, yellow tone.
• Pink color correcting primers counter greyish tones and brighten the face.
• Green color correcting primers combat redness caused by acne.

Step 3: Foundation

Correctly using a foundation that matches your skintone will hide any imperfections, smoothing out your skin tone to create a blank canvas.

How to Match a Foundation to Your Skintone During Chemo

Your skintone will likely deviate from place to place on your face during chemotherapy. This makes selecting a foundation color a little more difficult. The ideal foundation color is the one that will blend seamlessly with your skin in most areas of the face. Try to match your foundation with the place where your cheek meets your under eye for the best overall look. Additionally, pay attention to your skin's undertones and choose a foundation that matches. 

How to Choose a Foundation Formula

Foundation is available in 3 main types: cream, liquid, and powder. There is no one-size-fits-all foundation formula. Each type of foundation has its own benefits and set-backs.

Liquid Foundation. Liquid foundation is the most versatile type of foundation, and it is the least likely formula to dry out the skin. It is available in a huge range of coverage, from extra light to heavy. We like Cardani Aloe Foundation, which contains natural aloe vera.

BB and CC creams are a type of lightweight, light coverage liquid foundations. They are semi sheer, which makes color matching very easy. 

Cream Foundation. Cream foundations tend to be thicker and smoother than liquid foundations, giving them a "creamy" feel. Most cream foundations provide medium to heavy coverage. This type of foundation is also available in stick form, making application quick, easy, and less messy.

Powder Foundation. Powder foundation looks and feels natural on the skin, but it can easily become cakey and dry out the face. If chemo is causing your skin to be excessively dry, you may want to avoid powder foundation. However, if you do choose a powder foundation, use a natural mineral-based formula. This type of foundation typically provides light to medium coverage.

Recommended Foundation Routine

Starting in the middle of your face, blend your foundation outward to cover the rest of your face. The method of application is up to you:

• Apply with a beauty blender for light coverage
• Apply with your hands for quick and easy blending 
• Apply with a brush for an even finish

Step 4: Concealer

Don't skip concealer! Concealer will cover dark circles under the eyes and the last bit of discoloration on your face. 

How to Choose a Concealer During Chemo

Select a concealer that is 1-2 shades lighter than your natural skintone. This will help lift and brighten dark circles and blemishes. If your foundation is a spot-on match, you can also select a concealer that is 1-2 shades lighter than your foundation. We recommend a cream concealer like Cardani Correct and Conceal for the best hold and coverage, and easiest application.

Recommended Concealer Routine

Apply concealer in an inverted triangle shape under your eyes and on any blemishes or severe blotches that you wish to cover. Use your fingers or a blending sponge gently press the concealer into the skin and blend. 

How to Choose a Concealer During Chemo

Step 5: Bronzer

Bronzers add color, dimension, and life back to the face. They impart a natural-looking warmth and glow that will give your skin a healthy look. Applying bronzer correctly will also help your face blend seamlessly with your neck.

How to Select the Right Bronzer

Bronzers actually vary greatly in color. For the most natural look, choose a bronzer that is only a shade or two darker than your skin tone - with a matte finish (no sparkle). Also pay attention to the undertones of your skin, and select a complimentary bronzer.

We recommend using a powder bronzer for the simplest application and most flattering finish.

Recommended Bronzer Routine

Apply your bronzer with a fluffy brush in a 3 shape along the contours of your face. The 3 should sweep from the temples to under your cheekbones and down to your jaw line. Gently blend out onto the cheeks and underneath the jawline.

Step 6: Blush

A scary beauty product to many, blush sometimes evokes images of clown cheeks and cartoon characters. However, a soft blush with sturdy staying powder can do wonders to brighten up your complexion; all you have to do is find the right shade.

How to Select the Right Blush

There are a lot of techniques out there to find the perfect blush color. At the end of the day, the answer is simple: the blush that will look the most natural on you is the blush that matches the natural tone of your cheeks when you are blushing. Just pinch your cheeks and take a look. In this way, picking out a blush is very personal and unique to you. As a general rule, you can also select blush colors based on your skin tone—just keep in mind that these rules can (and often should) be broken.

• If you have fair skin, search for a blush that has a subtle tone. Light pinks, rosy pinks, and shades of peach usually work well for people with fair skin.
• Medium skin is compatible with a wide range of blush colors. Mauve and dark peach blushes will compliment most women with medium skin tones.
• If you have a deep skin tone, find a deep blush to match. Colors with red, fuchsia, berry, or plum will likely be flattering.
• Generally, the deeper your skin's hue is, the brighter the tones in your blush should be.

We recommend using a powder blush such as Cardani Professional Blush for the simplest application and most flattering finish.

Recommended Blush Routine

Smile! Use your blush brush to lightly apply blush to the apples of your cheek, slightly blending back to achieve a natural look.

Best Blush for Cancer Patients

Step 7: Finishing Powder

Powder sets your makeup to preserve a natural appearance throughout the day. Additionally, powder helps to blur pores and imperfections on the skin caused by chemotherapy. Just make sure to use a light hand.

How to Select the Right Powder

When choosing a powder, we recommend selecting a translucent setting powder. This will filter your face to create a brighter, healthier, more flawless look. Many translucent powders are are available in 2-3 shades to better match your skintone; select accordingly. Cardani Microfine Loose Powder is gentle on the and gives a beautiful finish, making it a good option for cancer patients.

Recommended Powder Routine

Once you have finished applying your bronzer and blush, dip (for loose powder) or swirl (for pressed powder) a fluffy brush into your powder, then tap the brush to get rid of any excess. Very lightly buff the powder onto your face using circular motions.

Best Powder for Cancer Patients

Step 8: Eyebrows 

If the eyes are the windows into the soul, then eyebrows are the frames. Perhaps chemo made your brows patchy or caused them to fall out completely. The right makeup can help repair and replenish what you've lost. Hair loss is one very emotionally taxing aspect of cancer; it also happens to be what we're most passionate about at Headcovers.

Selecting Colors for Eyebrow Makeup

When choosing a shade of eyebrow pen or powder, don't get too matchy. The ideal eyebrow shade is slightly lighter or darker than your natural hair. Instead of matching your hair exactly, draw inspiration from its natural undertones. Does your hair turn gold in sunlight? Opt for a warmer hue. Ashier undertones should veer towards cooler shades. 

Using 2 shades of eyebrow makeup—a dark shade and a light shade—will also help to create a more dimensional, more realistic look. 

Selecting the Perfect Eyebrow Tools

There are lots of eyebrow tools available, each with its own purpose: 

• Spoolie brushes brush eyebrow hairs (if you have them), and blend brow makeup for a natural look.
• Pencils are easy to control and create definition 
• Powders are perfect for filling in brows and the brow area, creating a soft, natural look
• Wax creates a suitable base for eyebrow powder, allowing it to stick well to skin. Brow wax prevents your makeup from smearing or melting throughout the day.
• Eyebrow mascara adds soft color and hold to the brows. It is most suitable for women who still have some eyebrows.
• Eyebrow fixative holds brow hairs in place. It is most suitable for women who still have some eyebrows.

For the most natural, 3 dimensional look, use a combination of products.

Recommended Chemo Eyebrow Routine

If you have experienced total brow loss, there are many ways to draw on eyebrows. One easy, basic way to draw on your eyebrows is by investing in stencils, brow wax, two tones of eyebrow powder, eyebrow pencil, and a spoolie brush:

• First, place the stencil on your face. 
• While holding the stencil in place, apply brow wax to the face.
• Continuing to hold the stencil, brush the lighter colored brow powder over the wax.
• Remove the stencil. 
• Use an angled brush to apply the darker brow powder in short strokes on the brow area. 
• Take your brow pencil and use short, quick strokes to add additional definition. 
• Use your spoolie brush and very lightly brush over the brow area to blend the colors for a softer look.

If you haven't experienced total brow loss, the above method will still work. You can also a pencil or powder will help target spare spots, filling in or re-shaping as desired. You can also try products like eyebrow mascara and fixative for an even more dimensional look.

Best Eyebrow Makeup for Cancer Patients

Eyebrow Makeup Alternatives

If you don't have any natural brow hairs left and you're starting with a clean slate, consider applying alternatives to makeup:

• Eyebrow tattoos are a simple, affordable, no-fuss replacement.
• Our 3D eyebrow wigs offer the same convenience as tattoo, but at a slightly higher price point. These eyebrows are crafted by hand using human hair to achieve a super realistic look.

Step 9: Eyeshadow

Eyeshadow is a great weapon to keep in your chemo arsenal, simply because it's fun and flattering. You can get as creative as you want; swipe a shimmery neutral or spice it up with purple, turquoise, or even pink.

Selecting Eyeshadow During Chemo

Most eyeshadows are made using finely ground mica, which is a glass-like mineral, and the mica particles in the eyeshadow sometimes have sharp edges that can cause irritation. Your skin may be more sensitive to eyeshadow during chemo.

Here are a couple tips to keep your eyes comfortable when wearing eyeshadow during chemo: 

• During chemo, it's best to choose a hypoallergenic eyeshadow that is free of irritating chemicals, such as parabens. Creme eyeshadows can be a good, gentle option here.
• Before applying your eyeshadow, use a primer to protect your lids. A gentle primer beneath your eye shadow provides a barrier between the eyeshadow and the skin. It will also help your eyeshadow stay on longer. Hypoallergenic creme eyeshadows such as Cardani Indelible Creme Pot Eyeshadow provide an excellent base for powder eyeshadow.
• Try to tap eyeshadow onto the eyelid instead of brushing. 

Selecting Eyeshadow Colors

Eyeshadow comes in every color you can imagine, and it's fun to experiment with different looks. However, when you're just starting out or want a natural look, we recommend buying or curating a kit that has at least 4 colors: 

• Shade 1 : Base Color - This is the lightest color in your palette. Ideally, this color should be significantly lighter than your skin tone. We recommend choosing a matte cream color for a natural look.
• Shade 2: Transition color - For a soft look, this color should be a matte nude (pink, brown, or taupe) tone about 1-2 shades darker than your skin. Don't have a transition shade? You can use your bronzer. 
• Shade 3: Lid Color - The lid eyeshadow can really be any color that you like! For a natural, everday look, look for a gold, bronze, or copper color in either shimmer or matte finish.
• Shade 4: Definition Color - This is your darkest color. It should be a fairly dark shade that compliments your lid color.

Quick & Easy Eyeshadow Routine

Eyeshadow can be applied in limitless ways. This is just one quick, simple routine that is flattering on most women.

1. Use your finger to gently apply your eye primer the the eye area.
2. Apply your base color over the entire eye area, from the brow bone to the lash line. 
3. Put on your transition color, from just below the bottom of the brow bone to the lash line.
4. Use your finger or a flat brush to gently tap your lid color onto your eyelid, from the lash line to the crease.
5. Apply your definition color to your crease and the outer corner of your eyes. Apply with a small brush to the lash line as well if you want a smokier look.

Best Eyeshadow for Cancer Patients

Step 10: Eyeliner

4 words: Eyeliner. Is. Your. Friend. It is absolutely ESSENTIAL if your eyelashes are thinning or falling out due to chemo. Eyeliner makes your eyes look brighter, bigger, and more awake. Adding emphasis along the lash line will make your lashes look fuller and thicker. If you've lost your lashes due to chemo, it will help to create the illusion of lashes.

Choosing an Eyeliner

Eyeliner comes in three basic forms: gel, liquid, and pencil. When undergoing chemo, all three forms are suitable. Here is a closer look:

• Liquid. Liquid liner creates a sleek, sharp line. This can be a very flattering look, though it takes a practiced and steady hand to apply correctly. It is very good at covering up the lash band on false lashes.
• Gel. Bold and highly pigmented, gel eyeliner allows for precise and creative application - as long as you're using a super fine tip brush. This type of eyeliner is more likely to smear than liquid eyeliner, so make sure to top it with a matching eyeshadow to keep in place.
• Pencil. First timers may be more comfortable using a kohl pencil eyeliner. These are easiest to use and create a softer, smudgier look that blends with your lash line and makes your lashes look naturally thick (a great trick if your lashes are falling out).

When selecting color for eyeliner, we recommend picking a dark brown color for a soft look or a black color for a more intense look.

Instead of wearing eyeliner, you can take a dark eyeshadow and apply it to your lash line with a smudging brush for a less intense smolder.

Best Eyeliner for Cancer Patients

Step 11: Eyelashes

During chemo, your eyelashes may thin or completely fall out. This can be traumatic, but you have options available to you. 

If you're experiencing eyelash loss due to chemo, your options include:

• Wearing false lashes. Apply natural looking eyelashes with a gentle, latex-free adhesive to instantly complete your look. 
• Applying mascara to your remaining lashes. Choose a mascara with volumizing properties and layer twice for maximum effect. However, keep in mind mascara can weigh down eyelashes, and removing mascara can be rough, causing eyelashes to fall out. Make sure to only use non-waterproof mascara to make removal is gentle and smooth. Black mascara is flattering on most people, but if you are blonde or like a very soft look, brownish-black mascara can also be used.
• Doing nothing. Remember that your comfort is always top priority. If you don't want to wear mascara or fake lashes, it's OK to relax and go au naturale instead. Try putting on more intense eyeliner instead to give the illusion of lashes.

How to apply fake lashes 

1. Trim the lashes to your desired length.
2. Paint eyelash glue onto the base. Wait for glue to become tacky.
3. Carefully stick them to your lash line.
4. If you still have eyelashes, curl the false lashes with your natural lashes; if you don't, simply curl the false lashes.
5. Finally, apply a coat of mascara

Click here to read our in-depth chemo eyelashes guide.

Best Eyelash Makeup for Cancer Patients

Step 12: Lipstick

Lipstick is the candy of the makeup world. If you can, treat yourself to a new lipstick (or three) to bring your spirits up. Even if you weren't a big fan of lipstick before chemo, don't knock it; you'll be amazed by the difference it makes. It is truly the finishing touch that ties your whole look together and gives you that extra boost of confidence.

Choosing the Right Lipstick Formula

Lipstick primarily comes in one of three finishes: matte, satin, and gloss. Each has a different look and feel on the lips.

• Matte lipsticks are probably the worst option for those with dry lips. In fact, any lipstick that is marketed as matte contains less moisture and only emphasizes cracked lips. Ship matte lipsticks while undergoing chemo.
• Satin lipsticks are a good choice, as they often provide extra moisture to lips. Additionally, they are more forgiving on the lips and can help to disguise cracks on dry lips.
• Lip gloss has a sleek and shiny look on the lips. It can be a good choice during chemo as it is often moisturizing. Just make sure to choose a lip gloss that is formulated to moisturize the lips. Instead, opt for a deeply moisturizing lipstick that's formulated to stay on all day.

Choosing the Right Lipstick Color

When picking out a color of lipstick, try to avoid a true nude lipstick color. When your skin is looking dull and sallow due to chemo treatments, a nude colored lipstick will only add to this.

Instead, go for colors that have little more pigmentation than you might normally pick. This will add a beautiful pop of color to the face! Try red, berry, and bright pink shades—this is your time to have fun!

Should I Wear Lip Liner? 

Lip liner helps your lipstick stay put throughout the day, so it is always a good choice. It is especially important when you are wearing bright colors. Make sure to choose a soft pencil liner that is not too dry and does not tug on the lips. Unless you're an avante garde runway model, lip liner should never be darker than your lipstick. Either match the shade of your lipstick exactly, or choose one to two shades lighter.

Best Lipstick for Cancer Patients 

If a face of beautifully applied makeup helps you feel more confident in spite of cancer, consider it part of your recovery plan. Treat yourself to non-irritating, hypoallergenic products. You deserve it.

Call us at 281-334-HATS with questions about beauty products or hair loss solutions. Our team is happy to help.